Moments after completing our last blog entry we were punished by 60-80km/h head-on winds on route to our next destination, forcing us to ride slower than we could walk. After a couple of kilometres we declared defeat and rode back to Vik and caught the bus to the next town, Skaftafell. We camped at the base of the biggest glacier in Europe where icy cold glacial winds sweeping over the campsite made for an unbearably freezing night. Miles has had a number of extremely frustrating camping "incidents" the worst being when he had to derobe 3 times, running around in the freezing cold collecting change for the shower machine (it takes 4 x 50K pieces), as the bloody machine ate his money. We have also had a little difficulty with our trangia stove for the first week. The first fuel Miles bought wasn't flammable at all, and the second was hugely flammable, blackening our brand new equipment with a giant fire ball! Until now we had been grateful to borrow other people's gas burners.


Glacial walk
Entry to underground ice river
Demonstrating his fury on the icy slopes

The view energized us
Glacial tongue

Svartifoss hexagonal basalt columns
Benedict staring death in the faceSkaftafell National Park entertained us with a surreal 5 hour glacial walk followed by a strenuous 6 hour hike through the mountains above campsite in the national park where we had spectacular views and collected wild blueberries to be added to a delicious porridge breakfast. As always, Benedict was the guinea pig to see if they were poisonous -- the only side-effect being deliciousness!

Gathering wild blueberries
The following day we were faced with more extruciating head-on winds, but our efforts were rewarded with a visit to the gorgeous Jökusarlson glacial lagoon, resembling an Antartic landscape. Some fellow Spanish bikers, conivingly drafted behind us the whole way and were annoyingly composed at the next campsite but offered us free Spanish nougats for our assistance.
Jökusarlson was frosty

Cocobolo ponders with his head above the clouds
Dancing with Cocobolo
The previous days continual exertion against headwinds had begun to weaken Benedict´s fragile knees, which only allowed the meagre 60km journey to Höfn, the next major port of call. After eying up the deliciously healthy livestock alongside our route, we couldn´t resist to indulge in a massive marinated pork feast for dinner.

Happily insulated and succulent
Welcome to gravel country
Excessive deep heat application
A sample of Petra's amazing lifetime collection
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